[Release] Gblaster's New Rapid Fire, No Pre-Programmed Chips

[GBlaster]

Well the time has finally come. After many many delays, 7 weeks, and some other stuff explained in the tutorial its time for me to release the monster.

This tutorial was designed to allow you to create a Rapid Fire for PS3 without getting ripped off on eBay or anything else like that.

http://rapidshare.com/files/159415095/Rapid_Fire.pdf

There is the link, enjoy everyone!

Thank you everyone who supported me in the past few weeks.

UPDATE - 11/10/08 Addresses some important issues that have been brought up to me and has some clearer pictures.

http://rapidshare.com/files/16258181...re_Updated.pdf

[omega48]

thanx bro

[DLoc]

Thanks guy I'm going to start on this tonight! All done and it works like a charm. ( I just picked a bad spot for the button.)

[mr.Bueno]

does this enable rapid fire on the R1 button or just on the installed button?
-=Double Post Merge =-
oops, i know the awnser :P but what i dont know it...how do i know if ive got a low power 555 timer what specs am i meant to be looking for?

[GBlaster]

It says on the box when you buy it. It should say something like "TLC 555 Timer IC - Low Power" or TLC 555 cmos Timer IC - Low Power"

[Analog]

Ok so I made this using some parts I scavenged around the electronics shop I work in.

My problem is, when I press the button, it does not rapid fire the R1 button, instead it seems to cycle between square, triangle, circle and X - on press and release, if I hold. I'm not sure if my 555 timer is a lower power, could this be the reason? My controller still charges ok. I soldered points 1 and 2 just like in the tutorial and connected them to the E and C of the transistor.

Any ideas GBlaster?

[DLoc]

analog, question did your controller have solder over all parts of the pcb or did it have exposed copper points on the board? mine some times moves the right analog stick down and right. I had to go back in as the anode wire broke, I don't know if it shorted or if i screwed something up but i do have rapid.

[Analog]

DLoc, no my pcb had just the copper points. I think I realized what I did wrong now. I assembled the circuit onto a small piece of pcb, and I'm a dummy and soldered the timer chip in backwards. I'm gonna have to desolder it and rig it to the back side of the board somehow, I really don't want to have to solder the whole circuit again. I'll report back here if I get it working.

[GBlaster]

For anyone who just have copper points. I recommend using Flux to help the solder stick to the copper because otherwise its highly possible that in an attempt to get the solder to stick, the solder may touch something else.

The problem with the random looking around when the button is pressed:
I've ran into this problem before. Check to make sure nothing is shorted (including just unexposed parts of the wire touching other points while closing the controller). I still have yet to fix this problem completely as so far its been only a very rare problem. If you are experiencing this problem, please keep in touch with me and I'll try to find a quick 100% solution.

[Analog]

Ok, I have installed the timer properly this time, but it still doesnt work. When I touch the remaining two legs of the transistor together my gun will fire. Do I have the transistor in wrong? I checked the pinout and the base is leg 3, but its possible the ECG catalog was wrong or I was looking at the transistor wrong.

[DLoc]

Originally Posted by Analog

Ok, I have installed the timer properly this time, but it still doesnt work. When I touch the remaining two legs of the transistor together my gun will fire. Do I have the transistor in wrong? I checked the pinout and the base is leg 3, but its possible the ECG catalog was wrong or I was looking at the transistor wrong.

I think I may know what's going on with you. (keep in mind I don't know what your expirence level is.)
1) In the diagrams (not pics) the timer is not in the dead bug position! -legs pointing up in air is dead bug-) In the dead bug position pin 1 is to the right of the notch.
2) look at this to and see which is your board (don't use their guide as it's a different mod, just ID your pcb. http://www.consolecustoms.net/tutori...torial_new.pdf
According to the new dual shock pin outs point 2 is the COM2 for R1, R2, X, [ ], /\, O.
3) Check for shorts around Point 1 & 2 on the pcb.

[Analog]

Thanks DLoc. Yeah the reason I had the timer in backwards was because I was working off the schematic but read the pinout form the dead bug pic in the tutorial. That was my dumb mistake. My experience level is pretty good, I dunno how I messed that up, but anyway I fixed it so its in the right way now.

I checked for shorts all over and can't see any. If I short the two transistor legs that go to the controller pcb (point1 and point2 in the tutorial) then my gun will fire, just once. So if I rapidly short the wires it shoots the gun rapidly. This makes me think the transistor is in wrong. If I understand the theory correctly, the timer should oscillate the input of the transistor rapidly, which acts like a switch rapidly firing the gun.

Oh, and I did this mod to my OLD style sixaxis.

[DLoc]

Mine is the original old sixaxis (copper TP points)
is your cap directional or non-polarized? I had to take my whole mod apart when I realized at the end that I had it in backwards due to + and - points on the timer. (before I powered it on)
UPDATE: Copper PCB (old sixaxis) possible solution- I went into do the PS button LED mod, so I rewired all but my pcb point 1 & 2 (new wire every were except pcb points 1 & 2 and pcb components.)
I found a definitely marked improvement when using rapidfire.
When it does track down and right it is very little, just noticeable and doesn't move in xmb at all. (Often times turning the controller off/on fixes it)
I think it may have been shorting out via the very edge of the PCB where a wire had insulation damage. Just to be sure I changed how I wired the the switch to avoid wire insulation damage.
Next I'll try some electrical tape under the pcb point wires just to make sure there's not a short there.
Here is my makeshift wiring diagram for any one who wants to give this a shot.

[bongman420]

Hey! Great guide..just a couple questions. I'm a complete newbie at soldering, only soldered a few wires together in my ITCS class in HS.

First off, I went to three different RadioShacks around the place I live..and none of them had a Polyester capacitor. They only had a metalized capacitor (shown in pic). Is this OK to use? Or will I have to order the Polyester capacitor online?

Second, could you take a look at my soldering job? I want to make sure it's OK so far before continuing lol..

[GBlaster]

The metalized capacitor will work just fine. The soldering looks good. I'm not a professional with soldering, but from the looks of it, its looking great. Just watch out that the exposed parts of the resistors and capacitors aren't touching each other in places that could cause shorts.

There is a new updated version of the tutorial that will address some common issues so please pick that up.

[bongman420]

Originally Posted by GBlaster

The metalized capacitor will work just fine. The soldering looks good. I'm not a professional with soldering, but from the looks of it, its looking great. Just watch out that the exposed parts of the resistors and capacitors aren't touching each other in places that could cause shorts.

There is a new updated version of the tutorial that will address some common issues so please pick that up.

Alright. I'm still waiting on the 30gauge wire, so I can't test it yet but I have a final question. since this is probably going to be my ONLY time I ever take apart the controller, I've decided to add an LED mod to it. Do you know if it'll affect the rapidfire in any way?

I'll be using the tut here

[GBlaster]

The LED mod shouldn't do anything to the rapid fire. There are a couple of recommendations though.

The spot where they tell you to solder the + of the LED is known to cause problems sometimes so either:
1) Find a new spot for the LED power source.
2) connect the LED power source to Leg 3 of the 555 Timer, Then run the wire to where the LED should be (the ground can be connected to where the tutorial says, the battery ground, or Leg 1 of the timer). The LED will flash along with the rapid fire whenever you press the button Just remember to use an LED that is rated for 3.7 volts.

You can view an example of this LED concept at my video for the adjustable rapid fire here:
http://ru.youtube.com/watch?v=-zseAtOBx-4

Please subscribe to the videos if you want to get info on all of my mods.

[Analog]

Ok I got mine working finally. I remade a new circuit with some different components and it works now. I used a non-Low Power 555 Timer and put it on an IC socket for when I find a low power I can switch it out easily. Also I managed to find two really, really small capacitors to reduce the overall size.





The pics aren't very good, they are from my cell phone but you get the idea.

I find it works great on COD4, but not so well on Socom with a handgun or M16. I haven't tried any other games yet.

Thanks GBlaster for the mod!

[quintus]

Hi guys, this is my first post so forgive me if i ask something that has already been answered!

Firstly massive thanks to Gblaster for makin the mod, it's great, however i'm having a slight problem with the rapid fire.

On connecting the two points from the transistor, the gun automatically rapid fires without me pressing R1. I've uploaded an image of the stripboard layout i've used. I don't think that the components i've used should matter, however i am using a NON low power 555 timer and a 450v 1.0uf electrolytic capacitor.

Help!!

Quintus

[GBlaster]

Originally Posted by quintus

Hi guys, this is my first post so forgive me if i ask something that has already been answered!

Firstly massive thanks to Gblaster for makin the mod, it's great, however i'm having a slight problem with the rapid fire.

On connecting the two points from the transistor, the gun automatically rapid fires without me pressing R1. I've uploaded an image of the stripboard layout i've used. I don't think that the components i've used should matter, however i am using a NON low power 555 timer and a 450v 1.0uf electrolytic capacitor.

Help!!

Quintus

It looks good, make sure that you are using the correct type of transistor. It should be an NPN switching transistor. Also make sure the correct legs of the transistor are soldered to the correct spots (the Base should be connected to 3 of the timer). And last, make sure your switch is good quality. I have used cheap switches that worked very poorly. Make sure your switch at least looks solid and doesn't look like a cheap piece of plastic.

Thank you for all the compliments!

[bongman420]

OK, I've soldered everything on, but I have to press both the switch button and R1 in order to do rapidfire. Is this how it's supposed to be? I put the button in an awkward position too lol.. If this isn't how it's supposed to be, would it be a problem with Points 1 or 2?

[GBlaster]

It means that only one of the connections is good and the other one needs to be reattached.

[DLoc]

I added a switch so I can on the fly switch the rapid fire from R1 to R2 triggers.
On the Fly Switch In GBlasters thread

[GBlaster]

Looks sick. I was planning on doing this but I never got around too it.

[DLoc]

Thanks, It was just the next logical step LOL! I'd just like to add a led to the switch legs on R2 So I can fast reference which trigger it was on. I'm just not 100% yet on how to do it. (I don't believe I can simply wire it in series to the R2 line.)
UPDATE: While I've decided not to go back in, and do this it's pretty easy. +pin3 and - of the ic 555 timer.

[bongman420]

FINALLY got it working correctly. I just lost two screws in the process though . Does anyone know what size screws they are?

[DLoc]

I think they are #00 maybe #0

[bongman420]

I guess I'm just a REALLY unlucky person..after I put the controller back together, the RF started erratically. Sometimes when I pressed the switch, it wouldn't work at all. Other times if I held down the switch it'd fire once then 10 secs later it'd fire 5 shots then nothing.

I took it apart again and resoldered EVERYTHING. Now when I press the switch absolutely nothing happens. If I put my finger on the resistors/transistor it shoots a few times, so I know it's getting power.

It started when I layed the wires of Point 1 and Point 2 flat instead of straight upwards and bending. When I first soldered the wire on they were straight upwards and I had to bend them for the battery to go back on. The wires would snap off at the solder point after around 2 hours. So I layed the wire down and applied solder ontop of them at points 1 and 2. I checked and the solder isn't touching anything other than the 2 points..but it doesn't work at all. My controller's fully operational, but RF is dead.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n/HPIM0815.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n/HPIM0816.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n/HPIM0817.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...n/HPIM0818.jpg

[GBlaster]

You soldering on the 2 Points looks a big large, make sure you didn't connect any other points. And you may have exposed pieces of resistors and capacitors touching each other on the timer.

[DLoc]

Bongman420, Try wrapping the components with electrical tape so that they don't touch each other. Also when I was looking at pic 15, it looks like you may have some how removed solder from the point just right of point 2 and have also connected those two points. I'd use desoldering braid and remove the solder from that empty point and fill it back in. (you may have created a weak joint which would cause the controller to act funny.) Point one looks like there may be a potential short, just because of how close it looks to the point to it's right. If your worried about the wire it's self touching another point just tin the wire and then trim it down so there is only a little bit of exposed wire. Then just touch the sodering iron to the wire above the point. (maybe use a little flux)